Seance mtg playmat1/23/2024 Yeah hopefully you do, reanimator is a lot of fun. But I’d love to finish putting together Reanimator and play that sometime too. Reanimator on the other hand, you’ve got counters to interact with your opponent, a flexible game plan in what to tutor and reanimate, and an alt-win in the form of Show and Tell.Īnd, as a disclaimer, I do play Dredge, so I’m not fully impartial. You don’t really care about normal notions of card advantage, and you’re pretty resilient to counterspells. I can’t think of another deck where you can cast 1-2 spells and still easily win. Dredge’s biggest strength probably lies in the fact that it’s not really playing Magic. Dredge is much cheaper to build than Reanimator. Dredge is more resilient to graveyard hate than Reanimator, particularly pin-point hate. The deck is good, but because it’s so hard to play properly, especially games 2-3, it’s just never seemed worth it to me. Dredge always seems like a deck that’s reward isn’t worth the work you put into it. I mean for Legacy purposes and such of course. Out of curiosity, which deck do you guys prefer? I’m partial to Reanimator myself. Hopefully this helps some of you out, I see a lot of people getting blown out in trades at comic shops because they never know how to value for foreign cards. Sorry to anyone whose Chinese Japanese or Korean I’m sure I did not describe these languages as eloquently as you may have, but I did the best I could with what I know. This is a Chinese card notice how everything is more boxed? You’ll also find a lot of Chinese cards have that circle dot in the middle at the end of a sentence, whereas Japanese is at the bottom.Īnd now we have Korean which to me looks like a mixture of the two, you’ll notice a lot more circles and oval shapes with Korean cards, that is really how I used to determine them in the beginning, of course now I just see it and can tell the difference immediately. Japanese cards are more “curvy” than the other languages, you’ll notice the other two languages are more box shaped. if you don’t speak it or write it you probably view all of the languages the same, but there are a astute differences you can notice to help you determine the language. There is a claim for valuing Russian foil higher than Japanese foil only because it’s more rare in terms of print run, but that’s normally just a matter of opinion.Īnother problem I see is how to determine the difference between Japanese, Chinese, and Korean. If you come across any and you find out that that card is not printed in foil, more than likely that card will be worth a lot of money. The biggest thing that always look out for are Korean cards. Japanese (although korean would take the place but we’ve only had 2 korean sets so far that offer foil).If a foil of the card does not exist (i.e. It is an eternal format so if I had to guess I would say: I don’t know, this isn’t really an established format and it caught on really fast then it seemed to die out so I’m not really sure if people are planning on getting foreign cards or not. Aside from a few eternal format staples foreign type 2 is generally not worth buying. You can expect Korean prices to be higher for a long time and any Korean foils that are played in eternal formats will be even higher. The one exception is Korean, wizards recently decided to start printing Korean again, and because of the low print runs the cards have gone through the roof. Type II is probably the worst format for foreign cards, because the format is not eternal this causes people to not go after foreign cards and especially foreign foils, keeping the price relatively low. I wanted to dispel some of the myths about foreign cards and shed some light on the true price. There is a lot of confusion when it comes to foreign cards, and there are a large number of people that think just because it’s foreign it is worth more.
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